Short walks around San Sebastian
This is a collection of my favourite walks in and around the Donostia-San Sebastian area. I regularly need to take a break from the hustle and bustle of the (albeit tranquil) city; these are the places I retreat to, when I have a moment. There’s nothing particularly demanding in this list and all of these walks are ideal for taking yourself, your family or your dog out for a gentle amble. They are all anywhere between 30 mins and 1hr long in duration.
1. Promenade around Mt Urgull
location (in San Sebastian itself)
35 mins gentle stroll, flat.
I didn’t find out about this gem until I’d been here a few years… A marvellous circular walk along Pasealeku Berria all the way around Mount Urgull , the main hilltop above the Old Town, with the massive statue of Christ. You can either start on the west bank of the river or at the Aquarium beyond the marina. It’s a proper sunset spot with plenty of benches and viewing platforms, a bike lane which lends itself to skating as well, and access up Mt Urgull too, if you want to get a bit higher. On rough days it’s probably the best place in the region to safely experience the might of the ocean.
2. Around Kukuarri Ridge
location (15 mins drive along the coast)
1hr moderate hike, flat but with one steep hill.
Absolutely spectacular sea views from the coastal ridgeline that runs between San Sebastian and Orio, this circular hike starts and finishes in the Orio-Igeldo picnic area, joining the Camino de Santiago for a short while. Mixed forests of chesnut, rowan, hazel and pine provide a beautiful natural habitat to immerse yourself in while gazing down the slopes into the distant ocean or looking out over the distant rugged coastline. Consult the info board in the corner of the picnic area for the route.
3. Aizpitarte Caves
location (20 mins drive south into the hills)
30 mins easy hike, rocky trail.
Located in old growth ash forest, it’s hard to imagine you are so close to the city when you arrive here. Park at the nearby Listorreta Park (which has facilities) and follow the trail up the valley towards the caves. The wildlife is amazing with birds of all varieties, deer, wild boar and, incredibly, a big population of Pyrenean fire salamanders (who come out at dusk). But the main feature is the caves which, although mostly closed off, you can still stand in the entrances and feel the story of our ancestors; these were used by Neandertals and early Homo Sapiens too. There’s a lovely glade just upstream from the caves which is a great spot for a picnic.
4. The Pasaia Ria
location (in Pasaia, ‘within’ San Sebastian)
40 mins, gentle stroll then steep steps.
Part coastal promenade, part hill climb, this starts with sights across the sound of the historical fishing village of Pasaia Donibane and finishes with a spectacular view of the natural harbour entrance with the castle-like Faro de la Plata lighthouse overlooking everything. An out-and-back walk starting on the dockside at the Torreko Plaza in Pasaia, you stroll along the ‘malecon’, past the Basque rowing teams, past the view of Victor Hugo’s old residence, past the historical shipyard of Albaola, then up the steps to behold the magnificent entrance to this flooded river valley (known as a ‘ria’).
5. The two beach city walk
location (in San Sebastian)
1hr brisk walking, flat.
Not exactly escaping the city, but a proper city hike if you’re up for it. Starting at the Comb of the Wind sculpture at the west end of the Ondarreta beach, you track the sand all the way around the bay of La Concha, drinking up the sophisticated beach vibes and elegant pedestrian traffic. Once you reach the old town hall (which you can’t miss, it’s the most ornate building around, just before the port), you cut through under the old town, crossing the river under the watchful eye of the remarkable Kursaal Concert Hall. Hugging the coast, you then hit La Zurriola beach where the surfers and volleyball players alike gather in their hoards, depending on the conditions. Finish with a well earned beer/coffee/wine at one of the little bars at the far end, or just sit on the sea wall of Sagues Park with the multitude of locals and watch the sunset.