Best pinxos in San Sebastián
Pinxos = Tapas
Donosti-San Sebastian is probably the most prestigious pinxos town of them all, with a culinary culture boasting more 3 star Michelin establishments than anywhere else in the country. It’s a big deal. I (Ben) also happen to live here and the pinxo bar scene was a big influence in my decision to move here in the first place. There are loads of great pinxo bars around but here are my five absolute favourites in El Parte Vieja (The Old Town) where you can happily explore all of them on foot. (Note: Don’t be fooled by the bars with massive selections on show… they look cool but they’re pre-prepared and so can’t be fresh… The best places tend to have only a few things on display and make the rest to order).
Tapas tour with a guide
Fancy a tapas tour guided by a local? It’s a great way of exploring and tasting your way around town. You’ll not only discover some interesting facts about San Sebastián, but you'll also be pointed towards some real culinary specialities by the guide.
Tip: Make sure to book in advance. This is a popular activity during the high season, so reserve early to avoid disappointment.
1. La Cuchara de San Telmo
location ($$ moderate)
Tucked away by the Church of San Telmo, this is an exceptional little spot. With a made-to-order only menu, their pinxos are genuinely exquisite. A taste of their sautéed foie gras, the morcilla or the goats cheese are in themselves worth your whole trip to Donosti. Also, if you have a glass of the muscato, you may never want to drink anything else. The efficient and friendly staff navigate through the crowded corridor bar with aplomb and you get the impression they’re proud to work there. Triple thumbs up from me.
2. Taberna Gandarias
location ($$ moderate)
If you want Jamon Iberico, this is the place. They really know their black label from their red, green and white… With a spectacular wine selection, it would definitely be classed as a high-end restaurant, but despite this well-to-do, white table cloth appearance, they manage to create a welcoming ambience and a spacious bar side area for the wandering pinxo tourist. Having quite a few tables outside helps as well.
3. Bar Sport
location ($ cheap)
Although the name won’t exactly attract gourmands, the constant crowd of locals spilling out onto the Calle Fermin Calbeton speaks for itself. The popularity obviously creates a wonderfully buzzy vibe, but despite the busyness, the bar staff remember your name, smile readily and serve you fantastic, reasonably priced pinxos. It’s a great spot to sample sea urchins too.
4- Bar Antonio
location ($ cheap)
If the quality of a Spanish tortilla is your benchmark of gastronomic excellence, as it is for me, Bar Antonio is the best place in town, signed locally as ‘Antonio Bar’. It’s run by my friend and upstairs neighbour Jose, and is a classic street corner bar a few blocks south into the more central zone. Their famous tortilla is the perfect blend of a gently crisped outside with a soft centre. Although it’s ultimately just potato and egg, it’s genuinely worth the foray out of the alleys of el Parte Vieja and you’ll definitely get the opportunity to practice your Euskera (the Basque language) with the locals at the bar.
