Ben’s Secret Gipuzkoa
Gipuzkoa is the NE province of ‘El Pais Vasco’ and although being the smallest, is the heartland of some of the richest cultural and natural heritage in the whole region. You can find anything from highland games to vast cathedrals to wildly beautiful rock formations (google the ‘Flysch’!) to the most beautiful city in the world… Donosti (aka San Sebastian). The latter is obviously what draws most people here, but definitely consider getting out of town for a bit if you want to really see under the skin of the Basque Country. Here are five of my favourite ‘off the beaten track’ places, in no particular order.
1. The Sanctuary of Loyola - the centre of Basque Christianity
location
If you’re more into sacred architecture and after something Vatican-like, head inland to the 18th century Baroque Basilica at the Sanctuary of Loyola in Azpeitia where, under the spectacular dome, you’ll find gold leaf and putti galore. Heralded as the birthplace of St Ignatius, this put the Basque Country on the map in terms of Christian history - St Ignatius founded the Jesuits in 1540; a group committed to renouncing worldly luxury and made famous by bringing Christianity to the remotest parts of the globe. The Sanctuary is made up of a complex of buildings, including St Ignatius’ ancient family home, a modern spiritual centre which offers numerous retreats, and an incredible records library. Go smell the old books, explore the epicentre of Basque Christian pilgrimage, but be mindful that you can only enter some of the Sanctuary areas by booking in advance.
2. Ibaieder Reservoir – a wonderful place for stroll in the forest
Not far from Azpeitia you can find the Embalse (reservoir) de Ibaieder. Although not spectacular, I love this little gem as it gives me a taste of the deeper mountainous zones while only being a short hop from the coast. It genuinely feels a bit different. With a beautiful 2 hour loop to walk, you can take in the smells and sounds of the old forest, picnic next to the tranquillity of the still waters and look down over the impressive presence of the dam itself. Although I don’t think it’s permitted, I sometimes take a calming dip in one of the many quiet corners. Just getting there down the country roads gives you a much better view of what Basque farming and rural life looks like. You’ll hear a lot of barking hunting dogs in their kennels.
3. Zarautz – the perfect surf town
I still holiday here every year with gang of surfing friends from the UK, though I travel a much shorter distance than they do nowadays. We’re a motley crew of beginners and intermediate surfers and the chilled vibe in Zarautz is just ideal. With a long, high quality beach break that affords some protection from stronger westerly swells, there’s almost always something for everyone, wave wise (See more in my Basque Surf Guide). The water is clean and there’s a promenade that runs the length of the beach where you’ll find volleyball courts and a skate bowl. Beachside showers that function year round, an enormous array of accommodation options within walking distance of the surf (including the hilltop campsite), loads of bars and restaurants and quite a number of surf shops and surf schools, make it very easy to curate an ‘eat-sleep-surf’ vacation. Particular favourites are the super delicious pinxos from the bar at the Karlos Arguiñano Hotel and enjoying a cafe cortado at the Borghetto Cafe (Kantina), where from the terraces of both you can enjoy watching the lovely A-frame waves being surfed really close by, around high tide.
4- The Petritegi Cider House – a place for feasting, Basque-style
Located in the hills behind Zarautz and Donostia-San Sebastian, this place takes you back in time. Seated on long wooden benches and tables among the massive cider casks, drinking the frankly scrumptious in-house cider and being brought plate after plate of steaming hill-raised local steak, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped through a time warp into some legend of King Arthur. It’s not what I’d call an ideal vegan or vegetarian destination, but if you want to treat yourself to an amazing medieval banquet, this is the place. They offer a bunch of different tour experiences of their cider-making facilities as well as tasting sessions which are all super fun. Just don’t leave without a 6-pack of their ‘La Petri’ bottled cider. It’s cheap and it’s sooo good.
5- The old village of Pasaia Donibane – a view into the ancient Basque maritime culture
The Basques are famed throughout Western Europe as able mariners and intrepid maritime explorers; they formed the backbone of the expedition that first circumnavigated the globe, led by Magellen. Pasaia Donibane, a picture-perfect waterfront settlement gives you a great feel for this, with some of its hodgepodge of buildings dating back to the 15th century. Located along at the mouth of a wonderful natural harbour, a stroll along the single street, amongst the cobbles and odd passageways, might lead you to the Palacio Villaviciosa (a magnificent Renaissance specimen) or the Casa Victor Hugo (a house/museum commemorating the stay of the renowned author) or even the side of an enormous ship leaving the docks for a destination unknown. Crossing the harbour from Pier Donibane on the regular little ferryboat service, you enter Pasaia San Pedro where you can find the wonders of the modern commercial port, as well as one of my favourite places in the whole Basque Country, The Albaola Ship Building Museum; an active traditional boat yard and training centre, showcasing some ancient restorations using old school Basque boat-building techniques.
